Chef's Table: Spring is Sprung!

Springtime in Alberta is a wild ride — we never know which way the wind is going to blow, or what it will bring with it. And when it comes to cooking, it’s a bit of the same thing: a few fresh ingredients are cropping up, but sometimes they can throw us for a loop when trying to decide what to do with them. Time to call in the experts! This month our Chef’s Table is abundant with unique dishes that bridge the last blasts of winter and give us a glimpse at things to come.  

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Chef Shaun Hicks / Little Wolf, Edmonton

Edmonton’s diverse population, combined with a robust mom-and-pop restaurant scene, were major players in developing Chef Shaun Hicks’ love of cooking. The abundance of fresh produce available in Alberta doesn’t hurt, either.  

At Edmonton’s Little Wolf, simple fare like the long-standing hummus and focaccia are his favourite. “I like the fact that it can be a shared appetizer or a delicious meal for someone who might be looking for something more value driven.” 

Deciding on what to cook can be tricky at this time of year. “Farmer’s markets are amazing here, but they don’t really ramp up for a few months,” he explains. But he adds that even the humble spring radish can turn into an amazing dish when roasted to bring out their sweetness. “Even cellared carrots, when stored correctly, are still available and sweet.” 

Enter his recipe for Roasted Carrots with Pickle Dressing. “It’s a spin on one of our old favourites from the restaurant. It incorporates bright sweetness and spice in a way that people might not necessarily be used to.” 

“It’s really such a simple dish,” Chef Shaun adds. “Giving the carrots a hard roast is the key, and make sure the apricots are hydrated.” 

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Chef Erika Costa / Sumaq, Calgary

Family is at the heart of Chef Erika Costa’s cooking. Memories of growing up in northern Peru, watching her mother and aunts create traditional dishes shaped her connection to food. “I express myself through cooking,” she says. “It’s my language and it carries a lot of sentimental value for me.” 

Chef Erika explains that Calgary’s Sumaq is built on trust and family, and the menu is an homage to these pillars. “Two dishes that are my absolute favourites are the Ceviche and Tallarines de la Abuela, both of which were a significant part of my childhood.” One of her favourite ways to bring the warmer weather to a plate in Alberta is by using ingredients found in Peruvian cuisine. “Use fresh herbs like cilantro, mint, or green onions, and pair them with fresh lime or lemon to create dishes that feel alive on the plate.” 

Sharing a love of cooking with her mother-in-law, Violeta, made way for Violeta’s Heavenly Shrimp. “She treated me like a daughter and shared her cooking secrets with me. When she passed, we decided to honour her by adding one of her favourite dishes to the menu. Every time someone enjoys it, a part of her lives on.” 

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Chef Yaëlle Vancaster / Brioche, Calgary

Calgary’s Brioche was brought to life by a trio of talent: Yann Chappot and Tristan Chaboche are the creators and curate the wine selection, while Head Chef Yaëlle Vancaster works her magic in the kitchen. “Our cuisine is, above all, a story of shared roots,” explains Chaboche. Mediterranean culture is combined with Chef Yaëlle’s technical expertise, resulting in classics with her signature twist. 

“Right now, we are very proud of our Roasted Lamb with Harissa and Hummus, as well as our Veal Daube Stuffed Cabbage,” he says, adding that they’re a true representation of their trifecta — soul warming comfort food reminiscent of family meals on Sundays.  

For spring, Chaboche says to focus on raw product, choosing crunchy vegetables and fresh herbs as soon as they appear in the market. “Simplicity, when guided by the season, is the ultimate key to a successful dish.” 

Peas, asparagus, leeks, and spring onions are just a few of these spring-time favourites that come together to make Soupe au Pistou, an easy dish to recreate at home that brings Southern French warmth to your kitchen. Use your vegetable trimmings to create a deep, flavourful base; for the Pistou, pay attention to the method as it’s crucial to the final dish. 

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Chef Filliep Lamnet / JOLA'S, Edmonton

Before working in Montreal restaurants, before culinary school at NAIT, Chef Filliep Lamnet learned to cook in his mother’s kitchen. His cooking his based on his Polish roots, centred on hospitality, hearty meals, and seasonal ingredients. “I’d describe my style as one honed by French technique but rooted in Polish cooking. It’s a contemporary, deeply personal interpretation of my culinary experiences throughout my career.” 

At Edmonton’s JOLA’S — named after his mother, Jolanta, or Jola for short — the menu is built on Filliep’s childhood memories, and he says the goulash has a special spot in his heart. “It’s my own interpretation of the dish that I’ve honed over time,” he explains.  

With any season, Chef Filliep says to look to farmers’ markets to become inspired. “Spring in Alberta is tough. It comes along so much later than we want it to.” Try combining the last root vegetables of the winter season with fresh, tangy cheese, and incorporate spring onions, fresh sausage, and lighter soups into your at-home menus. “Think renewal and re-emergence.” 

Żurek, a fermented rye soup, is a standard dish in Poland during the spring, typically served at Easter. For his version, he encourages you to try fermenting your own rye starter, but don’t be afraid to pick up a premade żurek base. Pair it with a good sausage or two from a local butcher. “The experience of eating and now making żurek is locked in my mind. It represents the transition of seasons and the arrival of warmer weather, something I’m always happy to celebrate.”